Loft Insulation

Most lofts we go into already have insulation. It is just forty years old, flattened in the traffic areas and doing a fraction of what it should. Topping over the top of that hides the problem rather than fixing it.

  • Old material taken away
  • Laid to current depth
  • Carpets sheeted and hoovered
  • 9.97/10 Checkatrade
  • 5.0 Google

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Checkatrade 9.97/10
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    What it involves

    Insulation works by holding still air. Once it has been walked on, stored on or simply compressed under its own weight for decades, that air is gone and so is most of the performance, whatever the depth looks like.

    So the first question at survey is not how much to add. It is what is already there, what condition it is in, and whether it is worth keeping.

    Installer laying mineral wool insulation evenly across a loft
    A Manchester loft reinsulated to a measured 300mm across 100m².

    What we usually find

    Thin, uneven cover with bare patches along the joists. Old material squashed flat where somebody has been storing boxes. Two different generations of insulation laid over each other, the bottom one long past useful.

    Cold upstairs bedrooms and condensation on the ceilings are the symptoms people ring about. The cause is nearly always one of the above.

    How the job runs

    Start to finish

    1. Free surveyWe look at what is up there, the joist depth, the hatch, the ventilation at the eaves and whether anything is being stored. You get a written price.
    2. The old insulation comes outCleared, bagged and taken away, and the roof space vacuumed before anything new goes down. Carpets and the landing are sheeted before we start.
    3. New wool laid to depthFirst layer between the joists, second layer across them so there are no cold gaps along the timbers. Eaves kept clear so the loft still breathes.
    4. Cleaned up and handed overCarpets hoovered, anything we moved put back, and your paperwork issued.

    The price covers

    What is in, and what is not

    Both halves matter. A quote that lists everything and excludes nothing is usually hiding the extras until the invoice.

    Included

    • Removal and disposal of the existing insulation
    • Roof space vacuumed before the new wool goes down
    • Mineral wool laid to current depth, cross-laid over the joists
    • Eaves ventilation kept clear
    • Loft hatch and walkway left accessible
    • Dust sheets throughout, carpets hoovered afterwards

    Not included

    • Boarding — that is a separate job, priced separately, on its own page
    • Electrical work, if we find cabling that needs an electrician

    Evidence-led work

    Recent jobs, start to finish

    All case studies →

    FAQs

    The things everyone asks

    How deep should loft insulation be?

    Current guidance is around 270-300mm of mineral wool. A lot of the lofts we go into have 100mm from when the house was built, which is about a third of what it should be.

    Why not just lay new insulation on top of the old?

    Sometimes that is fine and we will say so. But if the old material is compressed, damp or full of debris, covering it over buys you depth on paper and very little in the rooms below.

    How long does it take?

    A straightforward loft is a day. If the old insulation has to come out first, or the loft is part boarded, allow a day and a half. We tell you which at the survey rather than on the morning.

    How much mess is there?

    It is filthy work, so we sheet the route from the front door to the hatch before anyone goes up, bag everything in the loft rather than dropping it, and hoover the carpets at the end.

    Will it actually make a difference?

    In a loft that is genuinely under-insulated, yes, and you notice it in the upstairs rooms first. If your heat is going out through single glazing or an uninsulated cavity instead, we will tell you that too.

    Free survey, and a price in writing

    No obligation, no doorstep sales. If we are not the right people for the job, we will tell you that instead.

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